CRAFTING THE PERFECT BOWL

An exclusive interview with Chef Atsushi Yamamoto, Konjiki Hototogisu

Take us back to 2006, what was it like running your cozy little ramen spot in Shibuya during those first few years?

I started with a small shop of just 23 square meters and only 8 seats. It was located in a narrow alley where only about 30 locals passed by each day, and no cars could enter. During the first year, I had only about five customers on most days, and even on good days, it was less than 20. Since I was married, it was especially tough to make a living. I couldn’t afford to waste ingredients, so I would take home any leftover ingredients, which allowed me to get by each day. In Japan, ramen shops typically only serve ramen, and it was common for a customer to eat just one bowl and leave. A bowl of ramen was priced at about half of what it is today, so we had no room to buy ingredients for ourselves. Since there were many times when there were no customers in the shop, I used that time, as well as after closing, to constantly study ingredients and cooking techniques. I always thought about what kind of ramen would be appreciated by customers and made an effort to learn and improve.

What first drew you into the kitchen? Was it passion, curiosity, or pure hunger to create something your own?

When I was 24 years old, I witnessed a chef at a restaurant I visited for the first time receiving thanks from a regular customer who said, “Thank you for always serving delicious food. It was very tasty today as well.” Seeing that made me want to pursue a job where I could inspire and be appreciated by others, just like that chef. I still remember that moment vividly.

From Tokyo to Dubai, how did adapting to the UAE dining scene challenge or change your cooking mindset?

I am constantly thinking about how to create ramen that utilises local ingredients and how to make it unique to me. Additionally, I have always considered what is necessary for the local residents to appreciate my ramen. My philosophy is to continue improving the flavour until it receives positive feedback. If there has been a change within me, it is my perspective on the taste preferences of the people in Dubai. I have reaffirmed that people’s tastes differ significantly from country to country.

If every bowl tells a story, what do you hope the final spoonful leaves your guest thinking?

I hope that customers understand that the flavour of the ramen they enjoy is the result of many years of development. I strive to create flavours that allow them to experience the story of the maker when they eat it.

What’s the one lesson you learnt by sleeping in your shop and tweaking recipes until midnight, what would you tell your younger self?

The year I opened my shop in 2006 was a time when many well-regarded restaurants were opening. My shop received no customers at all, while many others that opened the same year quickly had long lines. I felt incredibly frustrated. However, I believed that if I worked hard, I could surely become the best. As a result of taking the time to improve my ramen, I am where I am today. I believe that hard work never betrays you.

Finally, what I would like to tell my younger self is, “Thank you for always believing in yourself and continuing to work hard.” I am simply filled with gratitude. Moving forward, I will do my utmost to put smiles on my customers’ faces.