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CRAFTING THE PERFECT BOWL

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Chef standing in a professional kitchen holding a bowl of ramen with both hands, wearing black gloves, a dark shirt, and a towel draped around his neck, with stainless‑steel counters and cooking equipment in the background.

An exclusive interview with Chef Atsushi Yamamoto, Konjiki Hototogisu

Take us back to 2006, what was it like running your cozy little ramen spot in Shibuya during those first few years?

    I started with a small shop of just 23 square meters and only 8 seats. It was located in a narrow alley where only about 30 locals passed by each day, and no cars could enter. During the first year, I had only about five customers on most days, and even on good days, it was less than 20. Since I was married, it was especially tough to make a living. I couldn’t afford to waste ingredients, so I would take home any leftover ingredients, which allowed me to get by each day. In Japan, ramen shops typically only serve ramen, and it was common for a customer to eat just one bowl and leave. A bowl of ramen was priced at about half of what it is today, so we had no room to buy ingredients for ourselves. Since there were many times when there were no customers in the shop, I used that time, as well as after closing, to constantly study ingredients and cooking techniques. I always thought about what kind of ramen would be appreciated by customers and made an effort to learn and improve.

    What first drew you into the kitchen? Was it passion, curiosity, or pure hunger to create something your own?

    When I was 24 years old, I witnessed a chef at a restaurant I visited for the first time receiving thanks from a regular customer who said, “Thank you for always serving delicious food. It was very tasty today as well.” Seeing that made me want to pursue a job where I could inspire and be appreciated by others, just like that chef. I still remember that moment vividly.

    From Tokyo to Dubai, how did adapting to the UAE dining scene challenge or change your cooking mindset?

    I am constantly thinking about how to create ramen that utilises local ingredients and how to make it unique to me. Additionally, I have always considered what is necessary for the local residents to appreciate my ramen. My philosophy is to continue improving the flavour until it receives positive feedback. If there has been a change within me, it is my perspective on the taste preferences of the people in Dubai. I have reaffirmed that people’s tastes differ significantly from country to country.

    If every bowl tells a story, what do you hope the final spoonful leaves your guest thinking?

    I hope that customers understand that the flavour of the ramen they enjoy is the result of many years of development. I strive to create flavours that allow them to experience the story of the maker when they eat it.

    What’s the one lesson you learnt by sleeping in your shop and tweaking recipes until midnight, what would you tell your younger self?

    The year I opened my shop in 2006 was a time when many well-regarded restaurants were opening. My shop received no customers at all, while many others that opened the same year quickly had long lines. I felt incredibly frustrated. However, I believed that if I worked hard, I could surely become the best. As a result of taking the time to improve my ramen, I am where I am today. I believe that hard work never betrays you.

    Finally, what I would like to tell my younger self is, “Thank you for always believing in yourself and continuing to work hard.” I am simply filled with gratitude. Moving forward, I will do my utmost to put smiles on my customers’ faces.

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    Hospitality

    JD MALAT GALLERY X AFRICAN QUEEN KOJO MARFO INSTALLATION LAUNCHES DURING RAMADAN AT J1 BEACH

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    African Queen Dubai unveils a special collaboration with JD Malat Gallery which operates in Downtown, Dubai and Mayfair, London, presenting an installation of works by Ghanaian-British artist Kojo Marfo at its J1 Beach location. Launching during the holy month of Ramadan through to summer, Marfo’s vibrant paintings enter into dialogue with the spirit of African Queen – the iconic Mediterranean restaurant founded on the French Riviera in 1969.

    Installed throughout the venue, the works transform African Queen into an immersive cultural setting where gastronomy, art and atmosphere converge. From sunlit interiors to open terraces overlooking the shoreline, guests encounter contemporary African art within a space defined by Riviera elegance and cosmopolitan energy.

    Born in 1980, Kojo Marfo is recognised for his distinctive AfroGenesis style – an Afrocentric “new beginning” that fuses Cubist visual language with Akan artistic traditions. His layered figurative works explore identity and spirituality, reframing African heritage through a contemporary lens. Rooted in Ghanaian artistic traditions while engaging with European modernism, Marfo’s work is expressive, symbolic and internationally resonant.

    This dialogue between heritage and reinterpretation mirrors African Queen’s own story. Founded in 1969 in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, African Queen embodies Mediterranean art de vivre, where cuisine, culture and celebration unfold in an atmosphere of warmth and timeless glamour. Inspired by the 1951 film The African Queen, the venue’s layered textures and design create an environment that feels transportive yet refined.

    At J1 Beach, the concept transitions seamlessly from relaxed daytime dining to vibrant evening gatherings.

    Throughout Ramadan, African Queen welcomes guests for sea-view Iftar gatherings, offering a curated set menu designed for sharing. The experience begins with dates and lentil soup, followed by Arabic mezze with warm bread, lamb samosa and stuffed vine leaves. A choice of lamb, beef kebab, chicken tagine or vegetarian tagine follows, concluding with seasonal fruit. Soft drinks, coffee and tea are included per person.

    The JD Malat Gallery and African Queen Kojo Marfo installation runs from February 2026 through summer 2026.

    À la carte dining is available daily. Iftar is served from sunset throughout Ramadan, Iftar is served from sunset until 9:00 PM, with set menus starting from 296 AED per person, including welcome dates and apricot, sharing starters, a choice of main course, and dessert. The Suhoor menu is available throughout Ramadan from 10:30 PM until 1:30 AM, with last orders taken at 12:45 AM.

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    Hospitality

    SEVA Holds Its Table Open for Community This Ramadan

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    In moments when the wider landscape feels uncertain, SEVA Table continues to hold its doors open as a daily act of care. Guests are invited to break their fast, reconnect and regulate with Ramadan Sufra designed to gently restore after fasting. The menu features dishes that support digestion and help transition the body gradually from fasting to nourishment. Highlights include:

    • Adas bi Hamod, slow-simmered green lentils with Swiss chard and lemon
    • Salt & Date: The Elemental Platter for two, featuring soup, warm dates, beetroot falafel, green shakshouka, hummus, cashew labneh, olives, bread, and tea
    • Light desserts including gluten-free cinnamon rolls and saffron lime key pie for sweetness that lingers without excess.
    • Karak Chai infused with cardamom and saffron

    Everything is prepared in-house from scratch and designed to replenish without heaviness.

    SEVA continues to operate as usual. The garden remains open for those who simply wish to sit quietly, share tea, or spend time in a steady environment. The café and space remain active, welcoming, and attentive.

    “The table is not a backdrop. It is the practice,” says Shadi Enbashi, co-founder of SEVA. “We lay the Sufra each day because the act of gathering, of nourishing one another with care and without noise, is itself a form of presence.”

    As always, SEVA offers what it can within its means. Simply a table, set with care, open to all who wish to sit.

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    Hospitality

    WOMEN’S DAY AT JOE’S CAFÉ: ENJOY A COMPLEMENTARY TIRAMISU WITH THE BURJ KHALIFA VIEW

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    With stunning views, comforting cuisine and a warm ambience, Joe’s Café welcomes every woman to unwind, reconnect and celebrate Women’s Day in true Dubai style.

    This Women’s Day, celebrate the spirit of ‘Her’ with an indulgent shopping-and-sipping experience at Joe’s Café. Perfectly perched inside The Dubai Mall, the café offers front-row views of the iconic Burj Khalifa and the mesmerising Dubai Fountain, making it one of the city’s most picturesque celebration spots.

    Whether it’s a sun-kissed breakfast, a leisurely afternoon lunch between shopping sprees, or an elegant dinner with your closest friends, Joe’s Café creates the perfect setting for heartfelt conversations and memorable moments. To make the occasion even sweeter, guests can enjoy a complimentary Tiramisu with any main dish, available for lunch and Iftar. A delightful touch to toast the women who inspire, lead and uplift every day. Gather your squad, raise a cup, and celebrate ‘Her’ where the city sparkles brightest.

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